Twinings Tea Shop, 216 Strand, London WC2R 1APHidden among a myriad other stores along the winding Strand, and dwarfed by the buildings around it, lies a little shop with a long history.
A grand pediment decorated with two Chinamen and a golden lion makes the Twinings Tea Shop easy to spot – as does the fact it's right opposite the Royal Courts of Justice.
I bravely pass under the lion (an old gift from the Royal Family) and find a shop like no other around it: a narrow passage covered by painted portraits of the Twining family through the ages (originally spelled Twynninge until the 18th century, when it was decided that sounded too French), and of course row upon row of Twinings teas, coffees and even Swiss hot chocolate!
In addition to the standard range found across the world, you can also find exclusive exotic teas, coffees and infusions: from Chinese jasmine tea pearls to South American yerba mate – mostly bought at auctions from single estates across the world.
As I take all of this in, I'm swiftly greeted by Adele Fleming, Strand Shop Manager for the Twinings Tea Shop.
With such a formidable name and title you'd be forgiven for imagining a curmodgeonly old lady wearing twinset and pearls – possibly scowling at you through lorgnettes or pince-nez whilst narrating monotonous anecdotes of her decades at the shop.
In fact, nothing could be further from the truth: at first glance, I though Adele couldn't possibly be older than about 18, although she assures me this is not the case!
Despite her youthful appearance and friendly manner, make no mistake: young Adele is a rising star in the tea business.
Despite her youthful appearance and friendly manner, make no mistake: young Adele is a rising star in the tea business.
With her masterful knowledge of Twinings and its history, it took me halfway through the interview to realise she's only been shop manager for a month: Fleming worked for a rival tea and coffee specialist until she was headhunted for her current position; such is the cut-throat life in the fast-paced world of tea retailing!
Unlike my trip to The Who Shop, I'm less surprised to be offered a cup of tea, although I'm impressed this is a kettle-free zone: instead there's a dedicated tap dispensing boiling hot water!
I'm given a Chinese Yunnan tea to taste, part of a new Twinings range. It's incredibly smooth – almost no trace of the harsh tannins you'd usually find in black tea – and it's got a nice, nutty kick at the end.
Or so I'm told by Adele, whose infectious enthusiasm makes my head, too, nod in agreement!
It's a perfect way to have an interview – I sit down and relax over a nice cup of tea, while Fleming tells me all about the Twinings story.
Thomas Twining founded the store as Tom's Coffee House in 1706, and quickly gained a reputation as a quality purveyor. In fact, Twinings has held a Royal Warrant ever since – no small feat, as these must be renewed every 6 months.
At the time, coffee houses were off-limits to women; Thomas decided to open his shop to all and make tea a key selling point – in the 18th century, it was very much an aristocratic drink.
“Tea itself was cheap, but the tax was sky high – you often find old portraits where a family is arranged around a tea chest to denote wealth.”
Twinings had a reputation for quality even back then: according to the legend, Twinings chests were never thrown overboard during the Boston Tea Party - they were considered too good to be wasted!
Twinings were also instrumental in popularising Earl Grey tea; in fact, their Earl Grey and Lady Grey teas are the only ones endorsed by Lord Grey. The company's association with the aristocracy continues to the present day: Twinings still prepares a special, secret blend of tea for the Royal Family.
Of course these days you can buy Twinings tea all over the world, and the company has always had a reputation for quality. However, the company's aim is to be not only the best, but also the best-selling British tea.
Twinings is now owned by a large corporation (Associated British Foods), although the shop still has links with the Twinings family and continues to function as a popular local tea supplier: clients these days include judges from across the road - who often drop by in wigs and stockings – and tourists – whose garb is usually simpler.
“We only have one shop, and it's been here for over 300 years; it's not going anywhere!”
Yet with such enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, I can tell Adele and the gang are going places.
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